some kinda good

Couldn’t make it to the Mycolocial Association of Washington’s Eighth Annual Mushroom Fair today, but I’m celebrating by remembering last Sunday’s MAW foray in Prince William Forest Park. A small group of us met with foray leader Mitch for a couple of hours.

It was a fun and – thanks to Mitch – educational hunt for me, though I came home with few mushrooms. I found one golden chanterelle, a generous handful of cinnabar chanterelles, and a bolete that won the day for beauty and elegance.

Walking in deep shade, near a stream surrounded by beeches and some oaks, I noticed a dark sphere that turned out to be a black velvet bolete – tylopilus alboater. It was deep purple to black with the typical bolete shape of its famous cousin, the Italian favorite, porcino. It was covered by what looked to be thin black velvet upholstry. Mitch identified it, put it through its safety paces, and I was happy to drop it in the “edible” side of the basket by the yellow and deep orange chanterelles.

Back at home, I waited until day’s end to explore the innards of the black velvet; it bordered on too beautiful to eat. When it landed on the fire, it turned even deeper black. On the tongue it paled when compared to the smoky depth of a porcino, but its creamy texture was lovely.

At table, the golden chanterelle won the day for flavor, but looked peaked next to the velvet robed bolete. The cinnabar chanterelles won showiest in dish, turning a glistening deep orange against the skillet.

The day reminded me of why I love to hunt mushrooms; Mitch reminded me that learning from the learned – with a good book in hand – is the way to get back into the art of the foray.

In the kitchen: I don’t have a recipe, really, but here’s what I did to sauté the mushrooms in butter and serve with pasta:

Don’t be shy about washing chanterelles. The false gills hold LOTS of dirt, even in the tiny cinnabars. Soak ‘em, use your fingernail, use a brush, but gently get the dirt out or you’ll taste grit, and it will ruin your dish.

After you’ve washed the chanterelles, leave them whole on a towel until they’ve dried a bit. I didn’t dunk the bolete, but it got a good washing, too.

Chop a few shallots, chop the mushrooms, find a nice sprig of rosemary, take out the bottle of Madeira (or a similar sherry), and put the pasta water on to boil. Make sure you’ve got butter and heavy cream. Grate some Parmigiano-Reggiano.

We’re cooking wild mushrooms here, so take a no-butter holiday if you find yourself with a similar windfall.

Sauté two or three small shallots in butter.

When the shallots become translucent, add the mushrooms and sauté until they’re darkened and soft. Throw in a sprig of fresh rosemary and add a bit of salt. Add a nice splash of Madeira and simmer on a medium flame until most of it has evaporated. You should have enough butter in the pan that the reduction is creamy and light nut brown.

Add some cream, let it simmer on medium heat until thick; take off the fire.

Cook the pasta in lots of salted boiling water until just under done – it should be a little hard. Back in the skillet, turn the fire back to high on under the mushrooms. Drain the pasta, but don’t drain it well. Put the uber al dente pasta in the skillet with the mushrooms (still on high heat) and toss for a minute or so. Turn off the fire, add salt and pepper to taste. Remove the rosemary stick. This is where you have your way with this dish – add pepper flakes, herbs, top with fresh basil – just don’t forget the butter.

Serve with grated cheese.


The catch of the day
Left to right: Cinnabar chanterelle – cantharellus cinnabarinus; Golden chanterelle – cantharellus cibarius; Tylopilus alboater – black velvet bolete